AHA Skincare 101: Everything You Need to Know to Get Glowing Skin with Alpha Hydroxy Acid

Discover the benefits of AHAs in your skincare routine. Learn all about alpha hydroxy acids and how they can enhance your skin.

Are you looking for a way to make your skin smoother, brighter, and younger-looking? Then you might want to try alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) in your skincare routine.

AHA is a type of chemical exfoliant that helps you get rid of dead skin cells and reveal a fresher and more radiant complexion. It can also help you fade fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots, and improve your skin texture and tone.

What exactly is AHA, and how do you use it the right way? In this ultimate guide, we will tell you everything you need to know about AHA skincare, including:

  • The different types of AHA and what they do for your skin
  • How to pick the best product for your skin type and goals
  • How to use acids in your skincare routine and avoid common pitfalls
  • How to mix AHA with other skincare ingredients and products

The different types of AHA and what they do for your skin

AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acid, which is a group of organic acids that come from natural sources, such as fruits, sugar cane, and milk. There are several types of AHA, and each one has its own benefits and effects on your skin. Some of the most popular ones are:

  • Glycolic acid: This is the smallest and strongest AHA, which means it can go deep into your skin and give you the most dramatic results. It comes from sugar cane and it can exfoliate, brighten, and boost collagen production. It works for all skin types, except very sensitive skin, and it can help you with issues like dullness, uneven tone, hyperpigmentation, acne scars, and aging signs.
  • Lactic acid: This is the second smallest AHA, which means it can still go into your skin well, but not as deep as glycolic acid. It comes from sour milk and it can exfoliate, hydrate, and calm your skin. It works for dry, sensitive, and mature skin, and it can help you with issues like dryness, flakiness, redness, and fine lines.
  • Citric acid: This is a bigger AHA, which means it can’t go into your skin as deep as glycolic or lactic acid. It comes from citrus fruits and it can exfoliate, brighten, and protect your skin. It works for normal to oily skin, and it can help you with issues like dullness, uneven tone, sun damage, and free radical damage.
  • Malic acid: This is another bigger AHA, which means it also can’t go into your skin as deep as glycolic or lactic acid. It comes from apples and it can exfoliate, brighten, and smooth your skin. It works for normal to dry skin, and it can help you with issues like dullness, uneven texture, and roughness.

How to pick the best AHA product for your skin type and goals

When you want to buy an AHA product, there are a few things you need to look at, such as:

The type of AHA

Different AHAs have different effects on your skin, so you need to choose the one that matches your skin type and concerns. For example, if you have dry and sensitive skin, you might want to go for lactic acid, which is gentler and hydrating than glycolic acid. If you have oily and acne-prone skin, you might want to go for citric acid, which is more clarifying and protective than malic acid.

The concentration of AHA

The concentration of AHA tells you how much AHA is in the product, which affects how strong and effective it is. Generally, the higher the concentration, the more powerful the exfoliation, but also the more likely the irritation.

For products you can buy at the store, the concentration of AHA usually goes from 5% to 15%, which is safe and effective for most people.

However, if you have very sensitive skin, you might want to start with a lower concentration, like 5% or 10%, and slowly increase it as your skin gets used to it. If you have very tough skin, you might want to try a higher concentration, like 15%, for more noticeable results.

For products you can get at the salon, the concentration of AHA can go up to 70%, which is very strong and needs the supervision of a professional.

The pH of the product

The pH of the product tells you how acidic or alkaline the product is, which affects how well the AHA can work on your skin. Generally, the lower the pH, the more acidic the product, and the more effective the AHA.

A very low pH can also be more irritating and drying for your skin. For products you can buy at the store, the ideal pH range for AHA is between 3 and 4, which is perfect for exfoliation without causing too much irritation. For products you can get at the salon, the pH can be lower, like 2 or below, which is very acidic and again, needs the supervision of a professional.

Product Review

Tested and Reviewed Products

Do you want to make your skin glow? Then you might want to try adding one of our finds to your skincare regiment. Out team research and reviewed the best products to use to introduce AHA's into your skincare routine.

This post includes affiliate links. If you choose to purchase through one of my links, I'd like to thank you for your support! I'm able to get a small commission, with no extra charges for you. To learn more, please check out the full disclosure with all the details. to your skincare routine. 


Thayers 2% AHA Exfoliating Toner With Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid And Witch Hazel, Smoothing And Pore Refining

Thayer's products have been praised for their old-fashioned, natural vibe and ability to leave skin feeling soft and toned.

Many customers have reported a tangible difference in their skin after using the product, with some even noting that it has helped with acne and rosacea. The product is also  alcohol-free formula is very gentle, non-drying and non-comedogenic. Customers have noted that it has a distinct citrus smell that they love.  Thayers 2% AHA Exfoliating Toner with Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid and Witch Hazel is a gentle, non-drying toner that exfoliates, smooths uneven skin and refines visible pores. Dermatologist-tested for safety and cruelty-free, this formula is perfect for all skin types to improve overall skin quality.

Pros

  • Leaves skin toned
  • Moisturizes and smooths skin
  • Helps with razor irritation
  • Suitable for sensitive skin
  • Suitable for various skin types

Cons

  • Not fragrance-free
  • May cause skin irritation for some

COSRX 6X Peptide Collagen Booster Toner Serum 150Ml/5.07 Fl.Oz, Skin Renewal Boosting Facial Essence, Niacinamide & Hyaluronic Acid For All Skin

This product is a great choice for those looking for a hydrating and brightening serum. It has an awesome ingredient list, great texture, and is non-irritating. It is also cruelty free and has a light white color, making it easy to spot. COSRX booster is also long-lasting and has been praised for its ability to firm and plump skin.

COSRX 6X Peptide Collagen Booster Toner Serum is a lightweight toner-like serum that boosts skin elasticity, reduces post hyperpigmentation, controls pores and improves the look of fine lines and wrinkles. It's formulated with Hyaluronic acid and six peptides that improve skin radiance and renewal. Hypoallergenic, dermatologist tested, animal testing-free, parabens-free, sulfates-free and phthalates-free. 

Pros

  • Hydrates dry, flaky skin
  • Reduces fine lines and wrinkles
  • Non-irritating
  • Lightweight texture
  • Suitable for sensitive skin

Cons

  • Can be tacky initially

Pacifica Beauty, Glow Baby Brightening Peel Pads 10 Percent AHA And BHA, 60 Pc, Brightens And BHA

Pacifica Beauty, Glow Baby Brightening Peel Pads 10 Percent AHA And BHA is a fragrance-free exfoliant that helps to brighten and exfoliate the skin. It contains a combination of lactic, glycolic, and salicylic acids to deeply clean pores and reveal brighter, more glowing skin. The addition of apple fruit extract adds hydration to soothe the skin.

Pacifica's skincare products have a variety of uses, from brightening to reducing pores and dark spots. Some users have experienced mild tingling and irritation, while others have found a pleasant scent and a smooth skin. However, some users have found that the product can be too drying and leave a sticky residue. Overall, users have found the product to be effective and affordable.

Pros

  • Reduces appearance of melasma
  • Reduces ingrown hairs
  • Effective on mild breakouts
  • Nice glow

Cons

  • Can be drying
  • Leaves sticky residue

COSRX Niacinamide 2% + BHA 4% Blackhead Exfoliant Toner 3.38 Fl.Oz / 100Ml, Korean Toner

COSRX BHA 4% Blackhead Power Liquid is another Korean Skin Care product that helps visibly diminish enlarged pores and dead skin cells, replacing it with natural radiance and even skin tone.

It penetrates deeply into the pores and helps clear clogged pores and gently exfoliates dead skin cells, giving the skin its natural glow. This product has been praised for its effectiveness in reducing blackheads and other acne-related issues. It is a great choice for those looking to reduce pore size and acne-prone skin. However, some users have experienced issues with the pump leaking and the product not being as strong as other products.

Pros

  • Effective oil control
  • Reduces pore size
  • Hydrating and non-irritating
  • Reduces odor
  • Smooth canvas for makeup application

Cons

  • Pump leakage issues
  • Blackheads persist
  • Pricey

Cosrx Bha Blackhead Power Liquid Toner

COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid is another highly effective chemical exfoliator to consider, that refines the look of enlarged pores and leaves skin brighter. This toner is a lesser priced product that helps to remove blackheads, unclog pores, and reduce oiliness for clearer, smoother skin.

This product has been praised for its effectiveness in reducing blackheads and other acne-related issues. It is a great choice for those looking to reduce pore size and acne-prone skin. However, some users have noted that the actives in it are not as strong as other products.

Pros

  • Effective oil control
  • Reduces pore size
  • Hydrating and non-irritating
  • Reduces odor
  • Smooth canvas for makeup application

Cons

  • Skin may purge which leads to more breakout

Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum

This is a cult-favorite serum that contains a blend of glycolic, lactic, citric, and salicylic acids, as well as antioxidants and peptides, to exfoliate, brighten, and smooth your skin overnight.

It is suitable for all skin types, except very sensitive skin, and it can help you with issues like dullness, uneven tone, hyperpigmentation, acne scars, and aging signs. It has a lightweight, gel-like texture that absorbs quickly and does not leave any sticky or greasy residue. It is vegan, cruelty-free, and free of fragrance, alcohol, and silicones.

Pros

  • Powerful blend of AHAs and BHAs
  • Contains antioxidants and peptides
  • Improves the appearance of various skin concerns, such as dullness, uneven tone, hyperpigmentation, acne scars, and aging signs
  • Lightweight, gel-like texture
  • Vegan, cruelty-free,fragrance, alcohol, and silicones

Cons

  • Compared expensive
  • Irritation, dryness, or sensitivity for some people
  • May not be compatible with retinoids, vitamin C, or benzoyl peroxide

How to use AHA in your skincare routine and avoid common pitfalls

When you use AHA in your skincare routine, there are some tips and tricks you need to follow, such as:

Patch test first

Before you put any AHA product on your face, you need to make sure you are not allergic or sensitive to it. To do a patch test, put a small amount of the product on a hidden area of your skin, like behind your ear or on your inner arm, and wait for 24 hours. If you see any signs of irritation, like redness, itching, burning, or swelling, you need to stop using the product and talk to your doctor. If you don’t see any bad reaction, you can go ahead and use the product on your face.

Start slow

When you start using AHA in your skincare routine, you need to start slow and gradually increase the frequency and intensity of use. This will let your skin adjust to the product and reduce the risk of irritation. For example, you can start by using a low concentration of AHA, like 5% or 10%, once or twice a week, and then increase it to a higher concentration, like 15%, or more times per week, as your skin gets used to it. You can also start by leaving the product on your skin for a short time, like 5 or 10 minutes, and then increase it to a longer time, like 20 or 30 minutes, as your skin gets used to it.

Apply on clean and dry skin

When you apply AHA to your face, you need to make sure your skin is clean and dry. This will make sure the product can go into your skin effectively and evenly, and avoid any interference from other products or substances. To do this, you need to wash your face with a gentle cleanser and pat it dry with a soft towel before applying AHA. You also need to avoid putting any other products, like toners, serums, or moisturizers, before AHA, unless they are specially made to be used with AHA.

Use sunscreen and moisturizer

When you use AHA, you need to use sunscreen and moisturizer to protect and hydrate your skin. This is because AHA can make your skin more sensitive to sun damage and more prone to dryness and irritation.

You need to put on a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every morning, and reapply it every two hours or as needed.

You also need to put on a moisturizer that fits your skin type and needs every morning and night, or more often if your skin feels dry or tight. You can put these products after AHA, or wait for at least 15 minutes for the AHA to soak in before putting them.

How to mix AHA with other skincare ingredients and products

Mixed with other skincare ingredients and products boosts the effects of acids and addresses your specific skin issues. You also need to be careful not to mix it with ingredients and products that might cancel out or irritate your skin.

Here are some dos and don’ts of mixing AHA with other skincare ingredients and products:

Do mix AHA with peptides

Peptides are amino acids that can help boost collagen production, reduce wrinkles, and improve skin elasticity and firmness. They can also slow down the penetration of AHA, making it less irritating for your skin. You can use peptides before or after AHA, or look for products that have both AHA and peptides.

Do mix AHA with antioxidants

Antioxidants are substances that can help protect your skin from free radical damage, inflammation, and aging signs. They can also enhance the effects of AHA, especially when it comes to brightening and evening out your skin tone. You can use antioxidants before or after AHA, or look for products that have both AHA and antioxidants, like vitamin C, vitamin E, or green tea.

Do mix AHA with hydrating ingredients

Hydrating ingredients are substances that can help replenish and keep moisture in your skin, making it more plump, smooth, and supple. They can also help calm and balance your skin, especially if it is dry or irritated by AHA.


Key Takeaways

  • AHA is a type of chemical exfoliant that helps you get rid of dead skin cells and reveal a smoother, brighter, and more youthful complexion. It can also help you fade fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots, and improve your skin texture and tone.
  • Different types of AHA have different effects on your skin, so you should choose the one that matches your skin type and concerns. You should also pay attention to the concentration and pH of the product.
  • You should always patch test first, start slow, apply on clean and dry skin, use sunscreen and moisturizer, and avoid mixing with incompatible ingredients or products when using AHA in your skincare routine.
  • You can combine AHA with other skincare ingredients and products, such as peptides, antioxidants, and hydrating ingredients, to enhance its effects and address your specific skin issues.

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FAQs

We answer all your questions

What are AHAs and their role in skincare?

AHAs or Alpha Hydroxy Acids are a group of acids that are commonly used in skincare products to exfoliate the skin. These acids, such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, work by gently removing the top layer of dead skin cells, revealing newer, smoother skin underneath. They are often used to improve skin texture, tone, and complexion, as well as to minimize the appearance of fine lines and stimulate collagen production.

Who should be cautious about using AHAs for their skin?

Individuals with dry or sensitive skin should exercise caution when using products containing AHAs. While these acids can have exfoliating and rejuvenating benefits, they may also cause irritation and increased sensitivity in those with sensitive skin.

How can AHAs impact skin conditions?

AHAs can cause increased sensitivity, irritation, and dryness in individuals with certain skin conditions. Those with acne-prone skin or conditions such as rosacea should be especially careful when using products that contain these acids. The potential for these acids to disrupt the skin barrier should also be considered for those with underlying skin concerns.

What are the benefits of incorporating AHAs into your skincare routine?

When used cautiously and in appropriate concentrations, AHAs can help exfoliate the skin, improve tone and texture, and promote a more even skin tone. They can also assist in the removal of dead skin cells, revealing fresh, youthful skin. However, it's essential to understand how concentration of AHAs and proper use of AHAs can impact the skin.

How should AHAs be used for those with dry or sensitive skin?

For individuals with dry or sensitive skin, it's crucial to introduce AHAs gradually and carefully into their skincare routine. Choosing products with lower concentrations of glycolic acid or lactic acid and incorporating them sparingly can help minimize the risk of irritation.

Resources

  1. Edison, Brenda L. BA, et. al., Skin exfoliation with low concentrations of alpha hydroxy acids and poly hydroxy acids when incorporated into wash-off or leave-on products using a novel abbreviated model to measure cell turnover rate. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 27887 . Volume 85, Issue 3, Supplement, September 2021, Page AB165 https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0190962220315747. Accessed 17/12/2023

  2. Trann, Dianna, et.al. National Health of Medicine. An antiaging skin care system containing alpha hydroxy acids and vitamins improves the biomechanical parameters of facial skin. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015; 8: 9–17.Published online 2014 Dec 19. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S75439 Accessed 24/1/2024